How to grow Nymphoides
Also known as the Fringed Water Lily or Floating Heart. Leaves are roughly heart-shaped with the recognisable indentation to their structure like a lily pad. Flowers are open, five-petalled and have delicately fringed or serrated edges. Native to the Eurasia and well adapted to the UK climate, these vigorous aquatic perennials have bright green, mottled leaves and long-stalked, bright yellow flowers up to 2.5cm across. Flowers appear in summer, with foliage held from March to November time. Not a true waterlily, Nymphoides peltata is actually related to the Bog Bean.
Nymphoides peltata’s basic needs are still water and full sun plants form an important part of a balanced aquatic ecosystem – offering shade and protection to fish – and a vital place to hide from herons. Blooms also attract pollinating bees. Both foliage and flowers will float upon the surface of a pond with the rhizomatous roots and stems which anchor plants retained beneath the water at ground level beneath. A deciduous aquatic perennial, plants hold leaves over spring and summer then becomes dormant over autumn and winter – returning again the following spring. Grows to a height of around 10cm, with a spread of up to 2.5 metres over 5 to 10 years.

Zantedeschia is a genus of flowering plants from the family Araceae and is native to southern Africa. With a rich history dating back to the Ancient Romans, these deciduous or semi-evergreen perennials have been used as a symbol of celebration. Zantedeschia was Named after Professor Giovanni Zantedeschia, an Italian botanist.
There are two main forms of Zantedeschia: hardy and tender. Hardy forms of the plant can be grown outdoors, enjoy moist soil and full sun or partially shaded conditions - these are known as Arum lilies. Tender forms of Zantedeschia prefer being grown in containers or pots and should be brought inside over the winter - these are known as Calla lilies.
With tuberous flora in all colours from whites, yellows and oranges to deep reds and purples, Zantedeschias are not to be overlooked in any garden, as long as they have sufficient sunlight to grow in.
Ready to learn more about growing Zantedeschia? Read on for all there is to know...

Key Information
Soil pH

Position

Hardiness


Where & when to plant Nymphoides
Position - Full sun and a south or west facing aspect
Soil - Clay or loam based aquatic soil or compost
Flowering Period - June to August
Hardiness - Hardy to -15 to -20°C
Plant Nymphoides peltata between April and September. The crown of your plant should sit between 10-50cm below water level. Plant them too deep and they are unlikely to flower, too shallow and they will die. If your pond is too deep for your Nymphoides peltata to grow successfully, add bricks to create a raised ledge which gives the ideal depth taking great care not to pierce the liner, if you have one.
For ponds with a liner and not a soil bottom, plant in an aquatic basket. Line the basket with a piece of hessian and fill it three quarters full of aquatic compost. Place the Nymphoides peltata in the basket and cover with more compost, ensuring that the crown is at soil level. Top off with a layer of lime-free pea gravel to stop the compost floating up to the surface.
Each crown sends out floating runners, which will gradually root and create new plants, its vigour means it will usually need to be thinned and cut back regularly so as not to become too invasive. When flowers and foliage die back in autumn, trim off the spent vegetation and your plant will die back to the bottom of the pond.
What to plant with Nymphoides
For pond plants themselves this depends upon the size of your pond and whether you are creating a fishpond or a wildlife pond. We have a wide range available, including some excellent marginals which will frame your pond and encourage bees, butterflies and other pollinators to visit. You may even be lucky enough to attract some more elusive damsel and dragon flies. We would recommend nymphaea, astilboides, gunnera, astilbe and primula.



How to care for Nymphoides
Pruning and Deadheading
Deadhead and remove spent leaves regularly. Prune to prevent plants becoming too vigorous.
Cold Protection
None required as Nymphoides peltate is H6 hardy and can tolerated temperatures down to -15 to -20°C.
Pests and Diseases
Generally disease free. May be susceptible to water-lily beetle, water lily aphid, brown china-mark moth and false leaf-mining midge.
How to propagate Nymphoides
Propagate by division of rhizomes or runners in summer, place pots in shallow water until established
1. Lift plants gently and wash off any existing soil to give a clear view of the crown.
2. Dependent upon size you can either tease the crown into sections or use two garden forks inserted into the crown back-to-back to lever the crown apart into two or more sections. Alternatively use a sharp knife or lawn edging iron to cleave the clump in two.
3. Aim to produce clumps containing three to five healthy shoots
4. Carefully discard old, damaged, or surplus pieces, keeping healthy, vigorous material.
5. Replant decent-sized pieces into baskets as per ‘how to plant’ instructions.
6. Position divided plants in shallow water to establish then, once a good root and leaf structure is established, treat as for planting.
Common Nymphoides Questions
· Are Nymphoides peltata poisonous?
No, in certain regions it is used as a cooking herb, whereby only the interior of a stem is eaten.
· Will my fish eat Nymphoides peltata?
Yes - Koi and other varieties of carp find all pond plants very tasty - so we cannot recommend any plants for your pond unless they can be protected by some form of barrier. In addition, goldfish will nibble at oxygenators and softer leaved plants in your pond. They are omnivores so will also eat larvae, insects and tadpoles.
Wildfowl will also eat plants, we suggest buying more mature plants with established root systems and protecting the roots/rhizomes as best as you can to prevent damage from eating and nesting. However, you may find that Nymphoides peltata is vigorous enough to cope with the odd nibble or two.
