Pruning and Deadheading

This low-maintenance plant requires minimal pruning – simply the removal of spent flowers once a year, and if necessary, a tidying up of any scruffy, winter-damaged foliage in spring.

There are two schools of thought regarding when you chop back the flowerheads. There are some gardeners who say allowing plants to set seed wears them out and shortens their lifespan, and so cut back the stems immediately after flowering. Others consider the autumn and winter interest offered by the attractive, dried seedheads as being worth sacrificing a couple of years for. If you fall into the latter category, leave stems intact until early spring, cutting back just before new growth begins.

Watering

Limonium are very drought tolerant once established, though like most plants still require watering during their first few months in the ground. Give a good soak on first planting, then aim to repeat this every couple of weeks until you’re happy the plant is well-established.

Container-grown limonium is a different matter and will need to be watered regularly throughout every growing season. Allowing the top couple of centimetres of compost to dry out between watering is a useful rule of thumb to help avoid overwatering. Use your finger inserted into the compost to check. From mid-autumn, the British climate tends to take over watering needs, though do remember to step in in the event of an unseasonably dry spell.

Feeding

Limonium grows naturally in low nutrient conditions and is likely to underperform if over fertilised. Too many nutrients can prompt excessive foliage growth at the expense of flowers, and in some cases even kill the plant.

In the ground, an annual mulch of well-rotted organic matter (i.e., a layer of manure or garden compost applied to the soil around the plant) will suffice when it comes to adding nutrients into the soil. This has the added benefit of suppressing weeds, locking in moisture, and – when applied in autumn as is recommended with limonium – insulating from winter cold and wet.

Container-grown plants rely more on the gardener for nutrition. Get off to a flying start by making sure you use a good quality compost (remembering not to add any slow release granules as you would usually), then from March to September apply a weak, low nitrogen liquid feed, such as tomato feed mixed to a quarter or half strength. Do this every 2-3 weeks.

Cold Protection

The need for additional winter protection depends on the hardiness of your species. L. platyphyllum and the popular new ‘Dazzle Rocks’ cultivar of L. gmelinii are as hardy as it gets (as long as they are grown in well-draining conditions), and require no extra help to get through the colder months.

1. bellidifolium should be okay throughout most of the UK, though will benefit from an insulating autumn mulch.
2. perezii is much more delicate and is likely to struggle with anything below -3°. In all but the mildest of microclimates, this species is best grown in a container to allow for overwintering in a frost-free environment such as a greenhouse, conservatory, or sunny porch. Move indoors in September and return outside once all risk of frost has passed. This varies from region to region, though averages around mid-May.

Pests and Diseases

Limonium tends to be problem-free aside from the potential for powdery mildew (a fungal disease). This appears as a white, powder-like coating on foliage, and can be caused by poor air flow, excessive fertilising, or insufficient sunlight.

Prune off and dispose of any affected leaves and if necessary, thin out surrounding plants to improve airflow and light levels. Do not be tempted to feed the plant, as this will generate an excess of soft, new growth which is particularly susceptible to the fungus.