How to grow Helleborus

Helleborus is a genus of around 15 species of hardy perennials, found growing in dappled shade in woodland, scrub, and grassy and rocky sites throughout C., E., and S. Europe to W. Asia. These members of the buttercup family are invaluable cold-weather interest plants in the garden, their blooms braving the chill to flower at a time when little else is at its prime. Flowers are elegant nodding or outward facing and usually cup-shaped, in shades of green, white, pink, plum and purple. Some varieties can be spotted, or freckled.

Foliage is handsome, leathery, palmate leaves which are usually evergreen, providing year-round interest.

Hellebores tend to be easy, undemanding plants to grow. To see at their best grow in groups or allow to naturalise and form drifts.

Key Information

Position

Soil Conditions

Flowering Period

Hardiness

Where & when to plant Helleborus

Hellebores are best planted anytime from autumn through to spring, providing the ground is not frozen or waterlogged. Planting can be done at other times throughout the year, providing a watchful approach to watering is taken until plants are established.

Hellebores are a perfect choice for a woodland setting, or a partially shaded rock garden, border, or container display. Flowers are best appreciated from beneath, so planting in a raised position (perhaps on a slope, edge of a retaining wall, or in an elevated container) can work well.

How to plant Helleborus

Clear the area of weeds
Dig an extra-large planting hole, to allow for the incorporation of well-rotted organic matter
Place the plant in the hole
Backfill with soil and gently firm in with foot
Soak well with water
Mulch around the base with well-rotted organic matter
Continue to water until fully established

What to plant with Helleborus

Hellebores make perfect partners to spring flowering bulbs as well as other, shade-loving evergreens. The flowers of the (slightly later to arrive) spring bulbs help to distract from the fading hellebore flowers. Similarly, the fresh new, evergreen leaves of the hellebore cover the dying foliage of the bulbs.

Think snowdrops, bluebells, chionodoxa, muscari, winter aconite and crocus, with hostas, ferns, and wood spurge.

If you would like any further planting ideas or growing advice for your helleborus, please contact our friendly and knowledgeable Customer Care Team - we will be more than happy to help you.

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How to care for Helleborus

Pruning and Deadheading

Cut back the large leaves of the previous year once new foliage and flowers start to appear. This will help to avoid fungal infection (hellebores can be prone to leaf spot), as well as ensuring flowers are fully visible.

Watering

Water this moisture-loving plant well until established, then in very dry periods as required.

Cold Protection

Hellebores are fully hardy, requiring no winter protection.

Pests and Diseases

Hellebores can be susceptible to aphid attack, specifically the large, white ‘hellebore aphid’. These tend to appear on the undersides of leaves and flowers in early spring. Soap spray or a vigorous blast from a hosepipe can help to disperse these unwelcome visitors.

Leaf spot can be a common affliction among hellebores. It is particularly prevalent in damp conditions and appears as brown patches on leaves, before spreading to stems and flowers. Good hygiene can help prevent this; remove all infected leaves in winter and be sure to remove any which have fallen to the ground. Dispose of thoroughly (i.e. burned or removed, rather than put on the compost), to stop the spread of fungal spores.

How to propagate Helleborus

Most hellebores are best propagated by division, which should be carried out after they finish flowering. Not only does this maintain the health, vigour, and appearance of existing specimens, it will also provide you with extra plants which are true to the parent.

There are exceptions to this advice; H. foetidus and H. argutifolius are not suitable for division and are best propagated by seed. Sow these in containers in a cold frame as soon as they are ripe.

Cultivated hellebores (those with cultivar names) will self-seed readily, though cross-pollination means resultant plants are unlikely to ‘come true’ to the parent. Occasionally, the results may be attractive and desirable, though more often they will be a non-descript, dull pink. Deadhead before plants can set seed if you wish to avoid this.

Choose a day when the soil is not frozen or waterlogged. Dig the plant out of the ground. Shake off any excess soil.

Separate the plant into sections using either swift, cutting blows with a sharp spade, or two forks inserted back-to-back with tines touching, handles then pushed together to prise the plant apart.

Discard old, damaged, or surplus pieces, keeping healthy, vigorous material. Replant or pot up selected pieces as required. Water well until fully established.

Common Helleborus Questions:

Why is my hellebore not flowering?

Hellebores can take three to four years to reach flowering stage. If you are growing new plants from seed, you will need to bear this in mind.

My container grown hellebores are looking rather sad. What might the problem be?

The natural habitats of hellebores tend to moist, shady, places with plenty of leaf fall to enrich the soil. Extra care is required to recreate these conditions in a container – using a good, loam-based compost with additional organic matter, not allowing plants to become too hot or dry, and feeding regularly throughout the growing season are all important things to remember.

Are hellebores good for pollinators?

Indeed, they are. Hellebores are a crucial source of nectar at a time of year when there is little else available. Solitary bees, in particular, rely on hellebores; their emergence from hibernation coinciding perfectly with the first blooms of these winter flowering plants.