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No Quibble GuaranteeHow to grow Fritillaria
A large diverse family with vibrant and vivacious Eastern European beauties related to other more graceful and shy British natives, all will add an exotic touch to your borders and containers.
Fritillaria are bulbous, herbaceous perennials with structured, spear-shaped leaves and bell-shaped flowers that hang over the foliage like lanterns. Plants of this kind have originated from mainland Europe as well as Western Siberia. Once known as a prominent wild plant in the UK, numbers have dwindled over the years, and they are now extremely rare to spot in the wild. With such a wide range to choose from, Fritillaria are a must for any planting style.
Key Information
Soil pH
Position
Hardiness
Where & when to plant Fritillaria
For the best spring blooms, Fritillaria bulbs should be planted in the autumn, but if you cannot plant them as soon as they arrive with you, please store the package carefully in a dry place in temperatures between 4-20°, with plenty of air circulation. Once planted, the bulbs will quickly start to grow roots, before they go dormant for the winter, in preparation to sprout in the spring.
Dependant on which species you have chosen depends on the growing conditions that your bulbs require. All are happy in sun or part shade, but the soil conditions do differ. Most are happy in moist but well-drained soil, however the striking and impressive imperialis and elwesii varieties need to be grown in dry, well-drained soil so be careful not to overdo it when watering during the growing season. The native British native, Fritillaria meleagris prefers to be grown in soil which is reliably moist.
All Fritillaria hate sitting in water, especially during their summer dormancy, so when planting your bulbs, ensure that you add horticultural grit or sand to improve the drainage. Otherwise, plant near established plants that will use any excess moisture during summer.
How to plant Fritillaria
Plant your scaly Fritillaria bulbs, at an ambient temperature, with the pointed end upwards. As a loose guide, bulbs should be planted at a depth around 2-3 time the height of your bulb and spacing should be around the same. If drainage is doubtful, add sand or grit to the bottom of the hole before putting the bulb in place then in-filling with soil. Water the soil well to help everything settle.
Fritillaria can also be grown in containers and make an incredible centrepiece on your patio. Remember that your bulbs will not be as well protected as they are if planted in the ground. As above, ensure drainage is good by adding old crocks or stones to the bottom of the container. You could plant bulbs a little closer to each other than you would in the ground, but make sure that the bulbs do not physically touch.
What to plant with Fritillaria
Smaller Fritillaria grow well with other spring flowering bulbs, for example tulips and daffodils. Impressive when grown within a cottage or informal garden setting, they are equally appealing growing amongst grasses or other prairie-style plants, where they weave through and add exceptional colour and intrigue.
The large stature and bold, vibrant blooms of Fritillaria imperalis and Auremarginata, give an exotic impression and exotic create a dramatic statement in borders and containers. They create such a vivacious display when planted alone that they don’t often need any companions. However, when planted under a banana plant or alongside other tropical treasures, you could almost be in your very own jungle.
How to care for Fritillaria
Deadhead Fritillaria by just removing the bloom when it has gone over. Leave the foliage and stem to die off naturally so they can continue to photosynthesise and gather nutrients to store back in the bulb to use the following year. You may wish to cut back the stems to just above ground level.
Fritillaria acmopetala, elwesii, meleagris, Persica, Raddeana and uva-vulpis will need a little protection over winter. Provide a heavy, blanket-like mulch in autumn, then a top dressing of compost in the spring.
Fritillaria Aureomarginata and the imperialis cultivars are hardier but a layer of winter mulch would not hurt them. Give a feed of tomato fertiliser just before the buds start to appear.
Fritillaria acmopetala, meleagris and elwesii will all naturalise in a lawn. The bulbs should be placed on the soil after the turf has been lifted. Allow the foliage to die back completely before mowing the grass, so all the possible nutrients can be transferred back and stored in the bulb.
It is possible to propagate Fritillaria by seed that can be sown in pots during autumn. The young plants will need to be grown on for two years before planting out. Alternatively, Fritillaria will increase naturally, multiplying under the surface, so you can divide the offsets in late summer to plant elsewhere.
How to propagate Urginea
Urginea are imposing plants, creating a dramatic statement when planted alone, creating quite an impressive clump when they have naturalised.
However, when grown amongst grasses or interspersed Allium they look incredible.
When choosing companion plants, think about the growing conditions that are preferred by each plant. Maybe grow Urginia maritima with Allium Forelock, Moly or Hair – the almost globe-like spheres of blooms will hover above the foliage but will have faded by the time the Urginea flowers have fully developed so will not detract from the spectacle.
Whether grown in borders or containers, the period when the foliage is absent could be filled with a low growing, evergreen carpet of Delosperma Suntropics Purple, Copper or Red, which become covered with bright almost neon coloured daisy-like flowers from spring until the first frosts.
